Fur

   In addition to foliage and leather, fur is among the oldest materials used as clothing. Cro-Magnon-era folks, who lived 50,000 years ago, migrated to colder climates in search of food. Fur provided protection from the elements. Our early ancestors learned how to keep animal skins from rotting by salting them and were therefore able to create fur head coverings and one-piece shawl-like garments. From the fourteenth to seventeenth centuries, certain furs such as marten, fox, grey squirrel, and ermine were reserved for and worn only by royalty as part of "sumptuary legislation," which placed public consumption restrictions on certain items and practices. These furs became symbols of power, wealth, and status. However, fur has not always had a stellar reputation: it was believed that flea-infested furs were responsible for spreading the Black Death across Europe in the fourteenth century, killing more than one-third of the population. By the sixteenth century, however, fur was once again in high demand and even lead to the exploration of North America, where beaver, fox, and raccoon were plentiful.

   The fur industry is composed of three areas: (1) trappers and breeders who produce the pelts, (2) fur processors (dressers and dyers) who tan the skin side of the hide, making it soft, and then clean, color, and preserve the natural luster of the fur, and (3) the manufacturer of fur products. Traditionally, the most expensive and desirable furs have been mink and sable, worn mostly by wealthy middle-aged women. Today, however, many different and less-expensive furs such as rabbit, beaver, muskrat, and raccoon are worn by men and women of all ages. International law prohibits trade of endangered species in the United States. The Fur Products and Labeling Act of 1952 requires labeling of the name and origin of the fur pelt, the type of processing and dyeing, whether tail or paws have been used, and whether any parts are reused fur. Animal-rights activist groups, such as People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA) and Friends of Animals in the United States and LYNX in England, raise awareness of the mistreatment of ranch-bred animals killed for their pelts. Anti-fur desig ner Stella McCartney and singer Chrissy Hines campaigned against the wearing of fur while other designers shunned the controversy and fearlessly featured fur on the catwalk, often to visible protest. While the goal of anti-fur activists has been to make wearing fur unfashionable, fur trade organizations—like the Fur Information Council of America and the Fur Institute of Canada—work hard to promote fur as fashion and to support animal welfare organizations.